How to Choose a Tuxedo Jacket: Shawl, Peak or Double Breasted

Start with the lapel, then the closure

Choosing a tuxedo jacket comes down to two structural decisions: the lapel style and the front closure. Lapels frame your face and set the formality tone, while the closure changes the jacket's visual weight and how it sits on your body. Get these right, and the rest—fabric, fit, and care—becomes much easier to evaluate.

This guide walks through the common options using real catalog examples, so you can match a jacket to your event and your build without guessing.

Shawl vs. notch vs. double-breasted: what each style signals

• Shawl collar: A continuous, rounded collar with no notch. It reads as sleek and evening-appropriate, and works especially well with contrast details. The Contrast Shawl Tuxedo Jacket pairs an ivory wool body with a black silk grosgrain shawl collar for a polished, high-contrast look.
• Notch lapel: A classic lapel with a step-like notch. It is slightly less formal than peak or shawl but very versatile. The Double Breasted Tuxedo Jacket uses notch lapels in silk satin, giving a structured, traditional feel.
• Double-breasted closure: A overlapping front with two columns of buttons (the Double Breasted Tuxedo Jacket has a six-button closure). It creates a broader, more commanding silhouette and suits those who want a formal, vintage-inspired look.

How to decide between shawl and double-breasted

If your event is black-tie optional or you want a modern, streamlined appearance, a shawl collar is a strong choice. The Contrast Shawl Tuxedo Jacket's ivory body and black collar make it a statement piece for weddings or galas where you want to stand out without breaking traditional formality.

If you prefer a more authoritative, classic silhouette—or you have a broader build and want structure—a double-breasted jacket like the Double Breasted Tuxedo Jacket offers a six-button front and side vents for comfort. Its notch lapels keep it slightly less dressy than a peak or shawl, so it works well for formal events that are not strictly black tie.

Product details that affect your choice

• Double Breasted Tuxedo Jacket: 100% super-fine Italian merino wool; 100% silk satin notch lapels; six button closure; side vents; fully canvassed; dry clean only. Merino wool is breathable and holds shape; silk satin adds subtle sheen; full canvassing gives a structured drape that molds to you over time. Side vents improve comfort when sitting or moving.

  

• Contrast Shawl Tuxedo Jacket: 100% super-fine Italian merino wool; silk grosgrain contrasting shawl collar; double button closure; side vents; fully canvassed; dry clean only. The contrast collar creates a distinct, upscale look; grosgrain has a matte texture that balances the wool's smooth finish. Double-button closure is simpler and more streamlined than double-breasted.

  

A step-by-step fit check before you commit

Use these checkpoints to evaluate any tuxedo jacket, whether you are renting or buying.

1. Check the shoulders: The shoulder seam should end at your natural shoulder bone. A fully canvassed jacket like both options here will feel stiff at first but should not pinch or droop.
2. Test the closure: Button the jacket. For the Double Breasted Tuxedo Jacket, all six buttons should fasten without pulling; for the Contrast Shawl Tuxedo Jacket, the double button closure should lie flat. You should be able to slip a hand inside the front.
3. Move your arms: Side vents on both jackets allow movement. Raise your arms—the jacket should not ride up excessively or restrict you.
4. Assess the length: The jacket should cover your seat and end around mid-thigh. The available lengths (XS, S, R, L, XL depending on size) help you dial in the right coverage.

Sizing and length options to consider

Both jackets come in a range of sizes and lengths. The Double Breasted Tuxedo Jacket offers sizes 34–40 with lengths XS, S, R, and L (not all combinations). The Contrast Shawl Tuxedo Jacket offers sizes 34–38 with lengths XS, S, R, L, and XL (again, availability varies). If you are between sizes or have a longer torso, pay attention to the length options—they can make the difference between a jacket that looks tailored and one that looks borrowed.

Because these are fully canvassed jackets, they have less stretch than fused alternatives. If you are unsure, err on the side of your measured chest size rather than sizing up for comfort.

Care that keeps your jacket sharp

Both jackets are dry clean only. That is standard for wool and silk formalwear, but it also means you should avoid home cleaning attempts. Between wears, brush the jacket with a soft clothes brush and hang it on a broad hanger to let the wool recover. Store it in a breathable garment bag, not plastic, to protect the silk details from dust and creasing.